The most frequently asked
question on the differences between the different lengths of DRZ400/KLX400
links can be found HERE
1. Raise the motorcycle with a bike
stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is just slightly off the ground.
Remove the two 17mm nuts that hold the links to the rocker and the swingarm
and push the bolts out. Sometimes the swingarm needs to be raised to allow
the link bolt head on the swingarm end to clear the chain, so remove the
rocker bolt first.
2. Push the four bushings out of
the stock links with a 16-18mm punch or bolt, and reinstall them in the
Kouba Links with the washer part on the inside (opposite side of the engraving).
When installing the Kouba Links, (engraving to the outside) be sure the
thin stock washer on both ends of the rocker and swingarm mounts are over
the bearing sleeve, and are pressing against the seals before the link
mounting bolts are tightened.
3. Set the sag (amount of vertical
movement of the rear axle FROM no weight TO bike weight plus rider weight)
at 2.5" inches with the DRZ2/3 links, OR 3.25" with the DRZ1 links, with
rider in full riding gear, standing on the pegs. If the links are for lowering
purposes ONLY, sag is set at 3.75", and will lower the rear of the bike
approx. 1.75" with the DRZ3 links, 1.25" with the DRZ2 links and 3/4" with
the DRZ1 links. The front forks can be slid up in the triple clamps .5"
until they contact the handlebars. For additional lowering of the front,
a second set of the top halves of the handlebar clamps can be installed
under the bars and tightened with 3/4" longer bolts, and will allow the
forks to be slid up an additional 3/4", but be careful, that may allow
the front tire to hit the fender if bottomed.
* Less rear sag
= quicker steering less stability. More sag = slower steering more
stability. The easiest way we have found to adjust the rear spring
preload/sag, is to use a long punch (we use a piece of 1/4" X 12" steel
keyway stock, rounded on one end) to loosen the top jam nut, then grasp
the spring at the bottom and turn the spring and the preload nut at the
same time. Turning the spring/nut clockwise increases the preload and decreases
the sag. Do not forget to tighten the top jam nut with the punch
after setting the sag.
Disclaimer: Lowering the rear more
than the front will change the geometry and could affect the handling.
4. For the stock DRZ400 kick, "E"
and 02 up "S" model shock, set the compression and rebound clickers to
their mid positions (basically stock settings). On the 2000-2001 DRZ400
"S" model, set the compression clicker to mid position, and forget about
the rebound clicker as it did not get the external rebound clicker option
until 2002. If bottoming is a problem, try turning the compression clicker
in (clockwise). All 02 up models have a high and low speed compression
adjuster/clicker. The outer hex nut adjuster (high speed) controls bottoming
and the inner clicker controls the smaller hits.
If the compression adjustments are
not enough, a stiffer spring may be required. These clicker settings are
just a starting point and may not be the best for everyone, so experiment
with them and find the best settings for you and the conditions.
If you like what the KoubaLinks
do for your suspension, please tell everyone. If you do not, please tell
us. We can be contacted at our e-mail address below and are always interested
in your questions or comments.
Ordering information and pricing
can be found on our ORDER