1) Raise
the motorcycle with a bike stand, milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is
just
slightly off the ground. Remove the 10 mm headed bolt from the sidestand
switch to allow the front link mounting bolt to be removed out the left
side.
Remove the 17 mm nuts and washers (right side) from both the link mounting
bolts and push the lower mounting bolt out the left side. Then raise the
swingarm up, remove the upper link mounting bolt out the left side and
both
links should drop out the bottom.
2) When installing
the KoubaLinks be sure the engraving is to the outside and
readable, both links are identical. Install the new links in the reverse
order of
the removal by raising the swingarm and installing the upper link mounting
bolt
from the left side. Next, lower the swing arm down until the lower
mounting
holes line up with the mount and the link eyes, then push the lower bolt
in from
the left side. Install the two 17 mm nuts WITHOUT the OEM flat
washers (the
KoubaLinks are slightly thicker than the OEM links, and torque to approx.
30
lbs-ft. Reinstall the sidestand switch with the 10 mm headed bolt and the
install
is almost complete.
3) For the
1.5" rear lowering, the sag would need to be set at Kawasaki's
recommended race sag, (amount of vertical movement of the rear axle
FROM no weight to bike weight PLUS rider weight in full riding gear standing
on the pegs) which is 1/3 of the total rear travel with rider in full riding
gear,
standing on the pegs. If desired, (may not be necessary for most
riders unless
the rear spring preload has been lessened for lowering purposes) this sag
adjustment can be changed by turning the two large nuts on top of the rear
spring. (More preload = less sag, and less preload = more sag. Turning
the
spring preload nuts clockwise will increase the preload and visa versa.
The
easiest way we have found to change the preload adjustment is to loosen
the
top jam nut, lube the threads on the shock, and turn the spring and all
by
grasping the bottom of the spring and turning spring, nut, and all.
It will turn
easier if the rear wheel is off the ground.
4)
The front fork tubes can be slid up in the triple clamps approx. 1 inch
until the
top of the fork caps are even with the bottom of the stock handlebars.
Only
slide the fork tubes up until the rider is comfortable with the way the
bike
rides and turns. If the front pushes or will not turn quick
enough we
recommend lessening the rear sag over sliding the fork tubes
up farther
than the 1 inch.
Disclaimer: Lowering the rear more than the front and visa versa
can change
the bikes geometry and could affect the handling, so be careful out there.
If you like what the KoubaLinks
do for your suspension, please tell everyone, if you do not, please tell
us. We can be contacted at our email address below and are always
interested in your questions or comments.
Thanks Mike, for all sorts of useful info. on the Super Sherpa:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Kawasaki-Super-Sherpa
Ordering info. and pricing can be found on our ORDER
FORM.