KoubaLink.com

Motorcycle Suspension Components
with other products available from Kientech Engineering
Installation Instructions
Fits: 2011-up KTM 250SX-F/XC-F/350SX-F/XC-F/450SX-F
& 2012-up
125SX/XC, 150SX/XC, 250SX/XC, & 300XC two strokes.
KoubaLink PN's: KTM11-1 & KTM11-2
*These links will not
fit the linkless style rear suspensions.
*
For
installed pictures on a 2011 KTM350XC-F scroll to the bottom of this page.

KTM11-1
link shown above. (Lowers the rear 3/4.") The KTM11-2 link is slightly
longer and will lower the rear 1 1/4". **Note:
Requires 040" filing on the swing arm tunnel and/or spring for clearance
with the KTM11-2 link. See step 2 on the installation instructions
below and the pictures at the bottom of the page.
1) Raise the motorcycle with a bike stand,
milk crate, etc., so the rear wheel is just slightly
off the ground. Remove the 10 mm headed bolt on the left end of the
front link mounting
bolt and remove the chain slider, then remove the two 19 mm nuts from the
mounting
bolts on the right side that hold the “H” link to the rocker and the engine
cradle. Push the
bolts out the left side, rear mounting bolt first. **350
"XC"
front mounting bolt (17 mm
headed) comes out right side after removing the brake pedal idler mounting
bolt (T40 or
7/32" Allen) to allow the master cylinder push rod to be moved out of the
way. The chain
slider on the XC is mounted to the side stand mount rather than the front
mounting bolt.
The swingarm may need to be raised slightly to allow the rear link mounting
bolt to slide
out easily.
2) The new KoubaLink comes with only the bearings and seals, so install
the center sleeve
from the bearing end of your OEM link into
the KoubaLink. Be sure to put some grease on
the new KoubaLink bearings before the sleeve is installed. Install
the new link on the
bike (front mounting bolt first) by pushing the mounting bolts in from
the left side. (front
mounting bolt on the XC model is installed from the right) You will have
to raise the swing
arm slightly to align the rear mounting holes. If you have the KTM11-2
KoubaLink then
you need to file either the swingarm tunnel and/or the spring &
bottom spring mount
approx. .040" for spring clearance when the swing arm is fully extended.
**You can turn the rear spring so the 2nd coil from the bottom is facing
back to get the
most clearance but then if you change the sag later and forget to turn
it for the most
clearance it will rub the swing arm tunnel. :-(
3) After installing the KoubaLink, be sure the grease fitting is angled
downward. *Left
link engraving will be upside down, right side will be readable left to
right. Install the 19
mm mounting bolt nuts and torque to 45 lbs-ft. The rear mounting bolt head
does not have
the locking extrusion on the KoubaLink to hold it from turning. You
can use a 21 mm
open end wrench or an adjustable spanner to hold it when tightening the
nut. Be sure to
replace the front chain slider on the left end of the link's front mounting
bolt on the SX
models.
4) For the best performance, set the race sag (amount of vertical movement
of the rear
axle FROM no weight to bike weight plus rider weight) at 3.5" with rider
in full riding gear,
standing on the pegs. With the KTM11-1 link, and the race sag set to 3.5",
the stock fork
position should be fine set at the 2nd index line on the fork tube, if
quicker steering is
required then the rear race sag can be lessened and/or the fork tubes can
be slid up a
max. of 1/4" or until there is .750" showing above the top triple
clamp. For the KTM11-2
links we recommend sliding the fork tubes up until they barely clear the
bottom of the
stock bars unless you are running less than the 3.5"of rear race sag. That
should leave
about 3/8" showing below the 2nd index line. Do not over torque the
triple clamp pinch
bolts. (9 lbs-ft lower, 12.5 lbs-ft. upper) The easiest way
we have found to adjust the rear
spring preload/sag is loosen the shock's preload pinch clamp with a 4 mm
Allen wrench
from the right side, then grasp the spring at the bottom and turn the spring
and the
preload nut at the same time. **You may have to put some lube on
the
shock threads to allow the nut to turn freely. Turning the preload nut
with the proper tool
is always best but if your careful (preload nut is made of some type of
plastic and is very
easy to damage) you can use a blunt ended
flat bladed screwdriver and a small mallet if
you are unable to turn the preload nut with the spring. Turning the spring/preload
nut
"clockwise" increases the preload and decreases the sag. **Do not
forget to tighten the
shock's preload pinch clamp after setting the sag.
5) Keep in mind that the less rear race sag you have the plusher
it will be on the small
stuff and the more travel you will have remaining as you are riding in
a less progressive
part of the travel. The Euro spec SX
bikes have a 4 mm longer rear shock, so assuming the
forks are the same length we would not recommend sliding the fork tubes
up as much on
those.
Disclaimer: Lowering the rear more than the front can change the
geometry and could
affect the handling, so be careful out there.
If you like what the KoubaLink does for your suspension, please tell everyone,
if you do
not, please tell us. We can be contacted at our email address below
and are always
interested in your questions or comments.
Norm Kouba
Email: njkouba@ix.netcom.com
Ordering info. and pricing can be found on our ORDER
FORM.
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Right side view of stock Link on KTM350SX-F
Right side view with KTM11-1 installed on KTM350XC-F

Right side view of stock spring clearance
Right side view with KTM11-2 link installed
OUR GOAL
IS TO BUILD
THE BEST
POSSIBLE
SUSPENSION
COMPONENTS
AND PROVIDE
THE CUSTOMER
WITH THE
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LEVEL OF
SERVICE.
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